by Holly Sklar

MR. CECIL'S CALIFORNIA RIBS (12244 West Pico Boulevard, a block west of Bundy in West L.A., 310-442-1550). This tiny, tin can shaped building with the I-10 rumbling behind it began as a chili stand, then became a tortilla joint, but a couple of years ago an enterprising new owner transformed it into a shrine to 'cue. Whether you go for a whole, half, or one-third rack of traditional pork ribs (St. Louis or the leaner but still flavorful baby back), huge beef ribs, or even better, a combo plate, you'll be treated to fall-off-the-bone, slow-cooked meat that arrives at the table pleasingly reddish brown and still smokin'. Add your choice of sauce: spicy (with a delayed kick) or mild (sweeter), each thick yet drippy. The less messy options include tangy, if fattier, BBQ beef on a long, fluffy egg-bread bun, or a variety of other sandwiches (including chicken, for the red-meat-averse). Sides are a must; try the baked beans bobbing amidst chewy chunks of ham, or crispy, jalapeño-laced, corn-laden hush puppies, served with honey on the side, for the faint of tongue. Sandwiches are in the ten-dollar range, ribs and combos more, but you'll leave full. The place fills quickly during lunch; happily, they deliver.

ZANKOU CHICKEN (1415 E. Colorado Blvd. at Verdugo, Glendale, 818-244-2237; also 5065 Sunset Blvd. at Normandie, Hollywood, 323-665-7842, and 5658 Sepulveda Blvd. at Burbank, Van Nuys, 818-781-0615). Ever since I discovered that my Burbank office is a twelve-minute freeway ride to Zankou's Glendale outpost, I've made chicken lunch a habit. It's all about the garlic paste at this super-inexpensive Armenian chain. Somehow, they've discovered how to take the harsh bite out of the stinking rose, rendering it creamy and mild, yet still, paradoxically, garlicky. They slather the white stuff on pita-wrapped shawarma

Mr. Cecil's California Ribs

(spiced beef or chicken, called "tarna," layered on a spit) and shredded chicken sandwiches, all of which come with cooling bits of chopped tomato. They also serve the garlic paste on the side with rotisserie-roasted, crispy-skin-ned, still-moist whole, half, and quarter chickens. Nearly everything comes with pickled sliced turnips, purple with beet juice, accompanied by little yellow peppers so fiery I can't take more than a single bite. There's no décor and they don't deliver, but service is lightning fast, and you can't beat the prices.

THE GUMBO POT (6333 West Third Street, in the Farmers Market at Third and Fairfax, stall #312, Los Angeles, 323-933-0358). The most authentic taste of N'awlins in Los Angeles is this humble, cheap and consistently excellent Farmers Market institution. A foodie friend from New York took me here around 1988, and I've been coming ever since. Here's why: a) hot, yet not too hot, seafood gumbo brimming with shrimp, crab, and a ladle of steaming white rice; b) made-to-order po'-boys -- a generously sized loaf of soft French bread, filled with your choice of corn-meal-rolled fried oysters or shrimp with thinly sliced lemon, or blackened chicken with Creole honey mustard and chopped romaine, or peppery blackened snapper; c) cold bright-red crawfish or peel-and-eat shrimp boiled in N'awlins' traditional Zatarain's spice mix. The jalapeño cornbread is addictive, as is the green salad with peppered pecans. Go all out and stick around for Café-du-Monde-style powdered-sugar-dusted beignets (square French doughnuts) and chicory coffee. The seating is outside, and the people-watching is prime. No delivery, but the line always moves fast.