Good Lunch

SANDWICHES

by David D. Kim

Our trusty old lunch companion, the sandwich, may not be the best thing since sliced bread, but it’s easily the best improvement on it. You’ve got acronyms (PBJ, BLT), global reach (French Dip, Philly Cheesesteak) and every loose-meat combo under the sun. These three

Doughboys

restaurants — offering everything from classics to create-your-own specials —carry other foodstuffs as well, but at the end of lunch hour, they know who butters their bread…

DOUGHBOYS (8136 W. Third Street, 323-651-4202). Not yet as famous, or as franchised, as La Brea bakery, this storefront restaurant turns out its own branded baked goods to an appreciative mob of fans. Brunch is usually SRO, and the erratic service is friendly, indifferent and scatter-brained…sometimes all at once. But any attendant hassles in visiting this hotspot, especially during a tight lunch hour, melt away once you sink your teeth into one of Doughboy’s glorious sandwiches. Whether it’s a sourdough baguette or toasted “pan de mie,” the bread holds its shape, conveying a pleasing chewiness that’s yeasty not spongy. Banish thoughts of brown-bagged tuna salad and opt instead for the popular Pan Bagnat, featuring scooped-out baguette halves, crammed with Salade Nicoise. It’s not quite the traditional version — where are the olives? — but the tuna is light and loaded with enough artichoke hearts and green beans to hold its own. A decadent Doughboys Club is layered with turkey, tomato, and crisp Romaine, all dominated by thick, smoky bacon. Other tempting sandwich options range from a veggie Portabello Mushroom to the Monster, a gooey concoction of roast beef and Emmenthal cheese. One sandwich makes a full meal, as do the homemade soups. Call for delivery, if you want to avoid the crowds.

BROADWAY DELI (1437 Third Street Promenade, Santa Monica, 310-451-0616). With its soaring ceilings and slick, vaguely Deco flourishes, Broadway Deli is the Great White Way as only L.A. could imagine it. The tri-folded menus are suitably extensive, and sandwiches rule the luncheon roost. The Chicken Eggplant supplies a generous breast slab with finely sliced eggplant, but the pesto needs more kick to define the overall taste. Along with the ubiquitous dill-pickle slice, silver tins of crispy fries accompany some sandwiches, and lightly sweet coleslaw comes with others. If size matters, the Turkey Club may be the way to go, even if the turkey leans toward the dry side. Waiters are usually friendly here, so you can always make special requests — less sauce, extra tomato, toasted bread —without fear of reprisal. And, as with any good deli, you can always find what you want, whether it’s the comfort of a meatloaf sandwich or the alluring exotica of an ostrich burger. Prices are a bit steeper than your local grocery store’s deli — most sandwiches fall in the $10 range — but you’re paying for generous portions and the stylishly unpretentious setting. Sure, the food may not be up to gourmet standards…what, you were expecting Patina?

BOB’S BIG BOY (4211 Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818-843-9334). Having recently undergone an extensive restoration, this 1949 Burbank landmark defines fast-food moderne. Aerodynamic edges suggest our city’s early fascination with car culture, so simply expressed in Bob’s well-preserved drive-through window. While Bob’s may be pricier than your average McDonald’s, the atmosphere alone may be worth the added expense. Comfy booths line the curvilinear interior, and a tiny gift shop sells prefab memorabilia (one racy T-shirt reads, “Serving It Hot for 60 Years”). And then there’s the food. Naturally, the Big Boy hamburger is the star attraction, but don’t dismiss the menu’s sandwiches, reminding us of a simpler, more caloric time. The Beef Dip’s thinly shaved meat nestles in a squishy French roll, accompanied by a small bowl of jus. It’s simple, filling, and, truth be told, totally mediocre. You’ll find the same shaved beef in the open-faced roast-beef sandwich, which is a tad better, due to a tangy brown gravy that’s tastier than it looks. Add a side of soup or salad — the tortilla soup is pleasantly tomato-y —and you’ll still spend less than $8. It’s not fancy, and neither is the crowd — are those cops or studio extras? — busily enjoying the lively buzz and reliable food. P.S. There’s car-hop service on weekends (seriously!).