by David D. Kim

HURRY CURRY OF TOKYO (2131 Sawtelle Blvd., 310-473-1640). Picture a small tureen of Sloppy Joes, spooned over a shallow platter of rice. Now imagine the whole thing tasting of curry instead of chili, with crunchy vegetables and a sliced, hard-boiled egg mixed in. Add a few raw onion slices for sourness, some raisins for sweetness, and some pickled radishes just 'cuz, and you've got this restaurant's version of a classic Tokyo Curry. If you've never tried it, Japanese curry has a brighter flavor than its densely spiced Indian counterparts. But don't be fooled -- Japanese curry is weighty in its own right, and Hurry Curry offers enough varieties of this exotic gravy to please the grumpiest gourmand. Vegetarians may choose among the vegetable, tofu, or spinach & mushroom curries, part of a larger spectrum, ranging from seafood to beef-and-potato croquettes. Crispy breaded strips in the popular chicken-cutlet curry will blow the diet with a smile, and there's plenty of shrimp and scallops in the well-priced seafood version ($7.95). Small green salads accompany every entree, and the menu's numerous spaghetti dishes are pleasing, if somewhat beside the point. Delivery is available.

MISHIMA (8474 W. 3^rd Street, 323-782-0181. Other branches in West L.A., Studio City, and Torrance). Don't even think about parking in this popular spot's cramped mini-mall lot during peak meal periods, as the psychic toll of attempting this feat may offset the bargain prices of Mishima's appetizing, generous meals. Most dishes cost less than $10, and even a three-course meal rarely puts you over the $20 mark. Consider starting with the tofu salad, its jiggly whiteness shrouded in bonito flakes, or the impossibly orange pumpkin salad. For value and quantity, it's hard to resist the lure of Mishima's combination plates, which generally include a decent-sized rice dish -- such as oyako-don (shredded chicken and egg over rice) -- and your choice of noodle (ubon or soba), served up cold or in hot broth. Daily specials -- replicated in

Mishima

plastic in the front display case -- run the gamut from broiled eel (a personal favorite) to bento boxes, often featuring assorted tempura or classic teriyaki. Health-minded types should consider the cleanly prepared fish or chicken entrees, including grilled mahi-mahi and a steamed Chilean sea bass ($11 to $14). Desserts are simple and elegant -- I like a small dollop of green-tea ice cream to soothe the nerves before heading back to that parking lot...

ASAHI RAMEN (2027 Sawtelle Blvd., 310-479-2231). Remember the movie Tampopo? If not, this no-frills noodle joint should pleasantly jog your memory, indulging the senses with the pungent smells and tastes of hearty, stick-to-your-ribs ramen noodles. A far cry from the hard, pre-packaged ramen that first broke onto the American scene, Asahi's noodles are freshly made, perfectly al dente, and steeped in a heady broth, salty enough to make you retain water for days. It's the way ramen was intended to be. Your biggest decision is whether to choose the plain soy broth, or the miso, funkier and slightly cloudy. I'm often torn between the thick, tender pork slices of the Chashu Ramen, and the crunchy mixed vegetables and chicken in the Tanmen Miso, which tops the price scale at a mere $7.50. You can always customize your order with corn, spinach, and other fillers, but be forewarned: These are huge bowls of soup. For the brave and half-starved, however, a few sides are worth mentioning. Mabo Tofu -- ground pork and tofu in a spicy sauce over rice -- is its own category of comfort food, and the pork filling in the crispy-fried Gyoza avoids the cloying pinkness found in other versions of this same snack. There are also cold-noodle salads and yakisoba, for the less soup-inclined. Asahi accepts cash only and is closed on Thursdays.