Good Lunch

VEGETARIAN

by David D. Kim

Contrary to popular belief, you have to be creative to carve out a veggie-friendly diet in this town. Not many restaurants dedicate themselves solely to veggie tastes, and those that do,

Real Food Daily.

cluster in trendier West Side locales. Spread your horizons to Indian or Chinese eateries, most of which offer plenty of tasty, meat-free options. Remember, there’s more than one way to skin a potato…

REAL FOOD DAILY (414 N. La Cienega Blvd., 310-289-9910). The ne plus ultra of veggie hotspots, Real Food Daily is a far cry from the macrame-and-fern-bedecked outposts of yesteryear. Everything you ever wanted to know about vegan ingredients, from agar-agar to wakame, is detailed on the menu’s extensive glossary. Sure, you already know what tofu is, but how many people have heard of kuzu, an edible starch derived from the kudzu plant? Apparently, a lot. The place is packed with devotees, clean and fresh-scrubbed as the food itself. A starter of cold sesame noodles perfectly balances the noodle-to-scallion ratio, refreshing the palate better than gooey, saltier versions of the same dish. Entrees employ those wily masters of disguise, seitan and tempeh, to mimic popular meat dishes. A “TV Dinner” special — gravy-laden seitan slices, chunky mashed potatoes, mixed veggies — is quite filling, despite its dearth of fat, salt, and sugar. It’s not quite the real thing, and dishes that don’t try so hard — such as the veggie burritos and fajitas — hit closer to the mark. The Caesar salad came highly recommended, and its olive-y tofu-puree dressing didn’t disappoint. Coconut cream pie, however, is oddly chilled, its “chocolate” sauce a bit too thin to satisfy my sweet tooth. Check out these and other dishes on RFD’s excellent website before calling for delivery (310-274-0123; 323-655-3663).

URTH CAFFE (8565 Melrose Avenue, 310-659-0628). The chaotic din may take the glow off your aura at this cramped café, located just this side of fab-you-lous. Follow the terminally hip crowd by placing your order, then situating yourself, indoors or out, to watch or be watched. Despite the alluring people parade, Urth’s light, mostly organic menu holds its own, offering few surprises but getting most things right. Fresh-squeezed juices are an excellent pick-me-up, and a flaky-smooth spinach-mushroom quiche, garnished with a petite mixed-green salad, makes for a simple, delicious meal. Organic oatmeal arrives steaming in a copious bowl, accompanied by a condiment cup of raisins, granola, and brown sugar. At $3.95, this could be the struggling-actor special, and only $2 more will get a side of fresh fruit. Hungrier appetites gravitate toward the veggie lasagna or chili, or the Greek-like Urth Salad, offering the option of chicken or turkey, if you really must. Lunch combos feature soup —vegetable-based non-dairy — teamed with your choice of customized salad or sandwich. Feeling too virtuous? Treat yourself to one of the tempting desserts or pastries (trainer be damned!), such as the crusty-sugared rustic tart or a truly deep, deep-dish cherry pie. Urth Caffé doesn’t deliver, but it’s open till 11 p.m. on weekdays — midnight on weekends — so you always have a refuge in case the audition runs late.

BOMBAY CAFÉ (12021 W. Pico, 310-473-3388). Any West Side foodie worth his sea salt should already know about this Cal-Indian standby, offering enough vegetarian options to please even the pickiest herbivore. At lunchtime, head straight for the thalis — set meals comprised of several small dishes. At $8.50, the Vegetarian Thali is a relative bargain, including a small salad, basmati rice, lentils, naan, and choice of two vegetable dishes. You can’t go wrong with the Eggplant Bharta, a silky puree of tandoor-charred eggplant spiced with ginger, onion, chili, and tomato. Cholas are chickpeas as you rarely see them, cooked in a slightly sweet sauce of browned onion and ginger. Bombay Café reveals its lighter California touch in its makhni dishes, as the saffron-infused tomato sauce never feels heavy, even when paired with paneer, or Indian farmer’s cheese. Paneer may also replace tandoori chicken in the Salad Thali, nestling itself among scallions, mushrooms, romaine, and a lemon-cilantro house dressing; a side of sauteed Japanese eggplant and onion naan completes this picture. Non-thali choices include the Masala Dosa — spiced potatoes in a thin crepe — which may seem texturally bland, but is worth it for the fresh coconut chutney, one of several exceptional house-made condiments. Bombay Café’s delivery service (323-655-3663) faxes menus upon request.