|
|
Conforming
Picture Changes
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Getting Started
We'll assume that you're working on a film, so your Fairlight should be set to 30NDF (Caution: never use 29.97 with a film project because, among other things, the Fairlight won't display feet and frames accurately. 29.97 should only be used with NTSC video-only projects.)
Next, set the display to Hours/Feet/Frames mode for either 35mm or 16mm, as appropriate. All of these settings are under the MFX key, on the right side of the console.
To make it easier to enter numbers into the GOTO, turn the SUBFRAMES display off (<BLUE>+<subf> will toggle the subframes display on and off).
TIP for advanced users: set an OFFSET for the DISK to the number of hours that correspond to the reel that you're working on. I.E., if you're working on reel 8 (with timecode set so that the reel starts at hour 8) set the DISK to an offset of 8 hours. This way, if you enter 263'+09, the Fairlight will position the cursor at 8 hours, 263'+09. As a result, you won't have to keep entering the hour every time you do a GOTO. (Note: Don't forget to clear your offset before you put your video online, or if you want to have your video online frequently, just give it the same offset as the DISK.)
The final step to prepare your project for conforming: Make a safety copy. Do this either by making an extension of your current project (under the PROJ menu), or copy the entire reel to a point one hour earlier on the timeline (this is the recomended method). To do this, place the cursor (playhead line) precisely at the beginning of the reel. If it's reel 8, then you'll most likely need to place the cursor at exactly 8 0000+00 (for accuracy, you should use the GOTO command). Now, enter BLOCK-DUBBER mode and set your range to the end of the reel (the end of the range doesn't have to be exact, as long as it fully encompasses the reel. The beginning of the range however must be exactly at the start of the reel.) Now, place the cursor at one hour earlier in your timeline, (in the above example, 7 0000+00) and press the COPY softkey. Now you have an exact "clone" of your reel, should anything go awry while conforming (naw...that never happens...)
Doing the Conform
To make the first change as shown in Figure 1, go into BLOCK-RAZOR mode and select the tracks you wish to conform. Then press <GOTO> and enter the footage where you need to start the lift, in this case, you'd enter 26309. Press <FROM>, then hold down the <TO> key, and you'll see that the softkeys change. Press the <TIME> softkey, then let go of the <TO> key. Notice that the first softkey, called <TIME>, is flashing. This will allow you to enter in the amount of the change, in this case 12'+11, so type 1211 and the plus <+> key, and you'll see that you've added 12+11 to 263'+9, so the total should be 276'+4. (TIP: if you make an error, just press the DOWN ARROW key that's under the <GOTO> key. That'll clear your entry and grab the current footage again.)
|
|
|
![]() |
|
|
|
|
On the other hand if you need to do a LIFT AND HOLD, the procedure is a bit different. Set a range, as above, but then move the cursor to a point after the reel. This is where you're going to hold the material. Press the SPLICE softkey. This will lift the range, pull up sync to the end of the reel, and place the lifted material at the cursor.
To replace the held section, select a range around the held material that's exactly the size of the held section (see Figure 2), place the cursor at the point where the section is to be reinserted, and again press SPLICE.
Tips
That's it for this issue. Next time, I'll cover rebalancing, and working without change notes from the picture department. As always, if you have any questions you'd like me to address in this column, send me e-mail.
All for now, happy cutting!